Building your own computer
Hello,
I'm pretty sure that many of you here have built your own computers. I am thinking of doing this as a "part time" project.
Ideally, I would like to buy used computer components cheaply on ebay (see here for an example: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/PRICE-ATTACK-STORE/PC-Components-/_i.html?_sacat=3667&_sid=56468353&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322) and assemble them myself. My reasoning is that if I buy the components cheaply, I wouldn't mind "experimenting" or making a mistake (which I am bound to do).
I don't really care about the performance of the finished machine, only that I can install some version of linux on it and browse the internet.
So, if you have built your own computer, can you answer two questions:
1). What was the first computer you put together (including when)?
2). Does this seem like a good idea or are there too many things to consider (eg. How do I know if the components are compatible etc)?
Thanks.
I'm pretty sure that many of you here have built your own computers. I am thinking of doing this as a "part time" project.
Ideally, I would like to buy used computer components cheaply on ebay (see here for an example: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/PRICE-ATTACK-STORE/PC-Components-/_i.html?_sacat=3667&_sid=56468353&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322) and assemble them myself. My reasoning is that if I buy the components cheaply, I wouldn't mind "experimenting" or making a mistake (which I am bound to do).
I don't really care about the performance of the finished machine, only that I can install some version of linux on it and browse the internet.
So, if you have built your own computer, can you answer two questions:
1). What was the first computer you put together (including when)?
2). Does this seem like a good idea or are there too many things to consider (eg. How do I know if the components are compatible etc)?
Thanks.
1. My current one, in September. It works fine with Windows 7 and Linux. Even the first time I switched it on it was fine (well, actually, that's not true, because the first time I tried to switch it on, I had forgotten to plug the cable from the power button into the motherboard, so naturally nothing happened, and the second time I had forgotten to plug the CD drives in so I couldn't install my OSes).
2. You can check if your components are compatible here: http://www.lambda-tek.com/computing/pcdesigner.htm (the choices are kind of limited, though).
It's not that difficult. It's mostly colour coded, it's like lego. Plus, usually everything comes with its own instruction manual.
Possibly the most important things are
1. Get an electrostatic wristband and do not touch any components while not wearing it. I did it a couple of times and it was okay, but I was probably very lucky. It's especially necessary if you're on a carpet, because you'll build up static more quickly.
2. Use the stand-offs. They're these things: http://www.cybergooch.com/tutorials/images/buildsystem/IMG_6805.jpg
They go in the case and the motherboard screws into them. Do not screw the motherboard directly into the case!
3. Make sure you put the CPU in properly. Match the arrows together and make sure the pins are in properly. Don't lock the socket until you're 100% sure it's right. Then put the thermal paste on (assuming it's not done for you, which it often is) and then CAREFULLY put the heatsink on. Never take the heatsink off if the CPU isn't locked into the socket. I did that once. The CPU came out with the heatsink because it was stuck via the ridiculous amount of thermal paste the guy who built it (not me) had applied. I didn't realise until the CPU fell off, bending a lot of the pins and rendering the CPU completely useless. Thankfully, this was an old computer so it didn't matter that much. I still never told anyone...
2. You can check if your components are compatible here: http://www.lambda-tek.com/computing/pcdesigner.htm (the choices are kind of limited, though).
It's not that difficult. It's mostly colour coded, it's like lego. Plus, usually everything comes with its own instruction manual.
Possibly the most important things are
1. Get an electrostatic wristband and do not touch any components while not wearing it. I did it a couple of times and it was okay, but I was probably very lucky. It's especially necessary if you're on a carpet, because you'll build up static more quickly.
2. Use the stand-offs. They're these things: http://www.cybergooch.com/tutorials/images/buildsystem/IMG_6805.jpg
They go in the case and the motherboard screws into them. Do not screw the motherboard directly into the case!
3. Make sure you put the CPU in properly. Match the arrows together and make sure the pins are in properly. Don't lock the socket until you're 100% sure it's right. Then put the thermal paste on (assuming it's not done for you, which it often is) and then CAREFULLY put the heatsink on. Never take the heatsink off if the CPU isn't locked into the socket. I did that once. The CPU came out with the heatsink because it was stuck via the ridiculous amount of thermal paste the guy who built it (not me) had applied. I didn't realise until the CPU fell off, bending a lot of the pins and rendering the CPU completely useless. Thankfully, this was an old computer so it didn't matter that much. I still never told anyone...
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closed account (S6k9GNh0)
Back in the AGP days, I had spent my entire allowance on a kick ass nVidia card (I think it was a GeForce 7800GT) and but didn't put as much into a nicer motherboard. I'm still confused as to what happened but when i flipped the switch, the monitor came up with gibberish then the CPU threw sparks and the mobo and CPU (Pentium 4 (don't remember much more) @ 2.8 Ghz) went out completely. Fortunately, the video card was fine (and the harddrive and cddrive weren't placed yet).
Moral of the story is I would probably suggest going with an already tried solution from someone who had the money to test a configuration. There's practically every configuration tried but it's just a safety measure.
Moral of the story is I would probably suggest going with an already tried solution from someone who had the money to test a configuration. There's practically every configuration tried but it's just a safety measure.
closed account (S6k9GNh0)
Also, DO NOT SLACK MONEY ON THE MOTHERBOARD. Just because a motherboard has all of the features does NOT ascertain quality. I've proven myself right on this matter the hardway several times and I'm suffering for it as we speak T.T. I've only ever had issues with the motherboard and I've been comfortable several times getting a cheap CPU and GPU temporarily (where the only issue there seems to be the amount of processing power and standard conformancy).
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I'm dealing with this right now.
My PC died not long ago, and I've lost nearly everything. I hope that it won't cost too much to recover the data off of my primary hard drive, since some of the stuff on it I really, really want (mostly source code for program's I I have written and am writing).
(This is the reason the FAQ is stalled ATM.)
My wife's computer is usable, but I am having trouble installing necessary development software to it. I can't get the latest MinGW to install properly -- which is really obnoxious -- so I'm stuck with 4.3. (I also have to spend a lot of time getting rid of junk that works its way onto the system after some years of use without cleaning. I've managed to make it work without crawling anymore.)
The new one has a GeForce 6100-M9, which, BTW, is on the wrong end of the bathtub curve, so I've been trying to find (and afford) a replacement.
My PC died not long ago, and I've lost nearly everything. I hope that it won't cost too much to recover the data off of my primary hard drive, since some of the stuff on it I really, really want (mostly source code for program's I I have written and am writing).
(This is the reason the FAQ is stalled ATM.)
My wife's computer is usable, but I am having trouble installing necessary development software to it. I can't get the latest MinGW to install properly -- which is really obnoxious -- so I'm stuck with 4.3. (I also have to spend a lot of time getting rid of junk that works its way onto the system after some years of use without cleaning. I've managed to make it work without crawling anymore.)
The new one has a GeForce 6100-M9, which, BTW, is on the wrong end of the bathtub curve, so I've been trying to find (and afford) a replacement.
That sucks. Does the hard drive work at all? I'd hate to think you were paying someone to recover the files unnecessarily. There are a lot of programs that you can use to recover files, I'd try some of them. Just Google around "ntfs file recovery". TestDisk might help you out.
No, I turned the PC on its side when I opened it up, and something from the HD clanked. I'm sure I will need some help there... (especially as it was running when I turned it, alas).
Ah, yeah, that does sound like something you might need help with. I hope you get your files back, anyway. If it helps, apparently the entire contents of the hard drive from the space shuttle Discovery were recovered. Then again, there may be a slight disparity in the amount of money available to the US government and the amount available to you...
Duoas: HDD crash?
Fumbles: The link you provided offers DDR RAM at ~$15 for 1GB. You can get a 4GB stick of DDR3 for $18 off of Newegg.
If you want to go for cheap, I recommend:
- 5400RPM, low-density hard drive (250GB-320GB)
- AMD AM3 processor (AM2/AM2+ processors are probably more expensive at this point)
- Integrated graphics on the motherboard (Will cut out at least $40)
- 250-350W PSU
Unfortunately, flooding in Taiwan late last year has caused the price of hard drives to shoot up. (http://www.trcbnews.com/flooding-in-taiwan-the-ripples-of-price-increases-in-hard-drives/116887/) I used to find 1TB drives on Newegg for $70, now the cheapest I can find for 1TB is $110. I don't know if this will affect prices on eBay, but it's definitely something to take into account.
Also, to comment on the wristband thing, I've never worn a wristband in any of the ~40 times I've cracked open a computer case for hardware maintenance. When I was working as an IT, even the manager (most experienced out of all of us) laughed when I asked where the wristbands were.
I wouldn't suggest going without any protection, however. For some cheap discharge of static electricity, touch one of the screws on a nearby switch or outlet. The wiring is configured to have those screws connected to ground, so that'll secure you. The more preferred alternative, however, is to have the PSU plugged in (not necessarily turned on, mind you, just plugged in) and to touch the chasis of the PSU. The chasis itself is also connected to ground, so touching the PSU before doing your operations can really help. I've always touched the PSU, and if I'm wrong about the risk, then this habit is what's saved me all of those times.
Finally:
First computer build was about two years ago, and still plays Crysis just fine. I first set it up with a mid-ATX case, Radeon HD 5770 graphics card, AMD Phenom II X4 processor at 3.0GHz, an ASUS M4A79T motherboard, 320GB 7200RPM hard drive, a 750W PSU and a cheap b/g wireless card. The whole thing was air-cooled, so I couldn't do much overclocking, but I was still able to hit 3.3GHz without too many heat issues. (Intel blows AMD out of the water when it comes to overclocking.)
When I first put it together, my dad was hovering over me since the parts were my gifts for Christmas. We had thrown a nice chunk of money at it, and he was very skeptical that it would work. It all seemed like rocket science to him. And it didn't work, at first. We plugged everything in, hit the power button, and the computer flashed. Just flashed. The fans moved slightly and the LEDs flickered on and off, but the machine wasn't exactly "running." After a long period of nervous pacing from my dad and double-checking all connections, I hit the power button again and it was running perfectly.
Between then and now, I swapped out my old case for a nice and roomy Coolermaster HAF 932 Full-Tower, added water cooling, an extra 320GB hard drive for media storage/server backups, and a second Radeon HD 5770 graphics card. The processor has been overclocked from 3GHz to 3.75GHz (anything higher than that (even if I shoot it up to the max of 1.7V) just crashes), and each of the graphics cards were also overclocked to about 15% above their normal clock speeds. After updating to the most recent drivers, Crysis 1 runs smoothly at max settings + some custom configurations.
Fumbles: The link you provided offers DDR RAM at ~$15 for 1GB. You can get a 4GB stick of DDR3 for $18 off of Newegg.
If you want to go for cheap, I recommend:
- 5400RPM, low-density hard drive (250GB-320GB)
- AMD AM3 processor (AM2/AM2+ processors are probably more expensive at this point)
- Integrated graphics on the motherboard (Will cut out at least $40)
- 250-350W PSU
Unfortunately, flooding in Taiwan late last year has caused the price of hard drives to shoot up. (http://www.trcbnews.com/flooding-in-taiwan-the-ripples-of-price-increases-in-hard-drives/116887/) I used to find 1TB drives on Newegg for $70, now the cheapest I can find for 1TB is $110. I don't know if this will affect prices on eBay, but it's definitely something to take into account.
Also, to comment on the wristband thing, I've never worn a wristband in any of the ~40 times I've cracked open a computer case for hardware maintenance. When I was working as an IT, even the manager (most experienced out of all of us) laughed when I asked where the wristbands were.
I wouldn't suggest going without any protection, however. For some cheap discharge of static electricity, touch one of the screws on a nearby switch or outlet. The wiring is configured to have those screws connected to ground, so that'll secure you. The more preferred alternative, however, is to have the PSU plugged in (not necessarily turned on, mind you, just plugged in) and to touch the chasis of the PSU. The chasis itself is also connected to ground, so touching the PSU before doing your operations can really help. I've always touched the PSU, and if I'm wrong about the risk, then this habit is what's saved me all of those times.
Finally:
First computer build was about two years ago, and still plays Crysis just fine. I first set it up with a mid-ATX case, Radeon HD 5770 graphics card, AMD Phenom II X4 processor at 3.0GHz, an ASUS M4A79T motherboard, 320GB 7200RPM hard drive, a 750W PSU and a cheap b/g wireless card. The whole thing was air-cooled, so I couldn't do much overclocking, but I was still able to hit 3.3GHz without too many heat issues. (Intel blows AMD out of the water when it comes to overclocking.)
When I first put it together, my dad was hovering over me since the parts were my gifts for Christmas. We had thrown a nice chunk of money at it, and he was very skeptical that it would work. It all seemed like rocket science to him. And it didn't work, at first. We plugged everything in, hit the power button, and the computer flashed. Just flashed. The fans moved slightly and the LEDs flickered on and off, but the machine wasn't exactly "running." After a long period of nervous pacing from my dad and double-checking all connections, I hit the power button again and it was running perfectly.
Between then and now, I swapped out my old case for a nice and roomy Coolermaster HAF 932 Full-Tower, added water cooling, an extra 320GB hard drive for media storage/server backups, and a second Radeon HD 5770 graphics card. The processor has been overclocked from 3GHz to 3.75GHz (anything higher than that (even if I shoot it up to the max of 1.7V) just crashes), and each of the graphics cards were also overclocked to about 15% above their normal clock speeds. After updating to the most recent drivers, Crysis 1 runs smoothly at max settings + some custom configurations.
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@NGen,
That's true, touching the chassis does ground you as well, I just think the anti-static wristbands are better because they leave you with two free hands. I think there's a lot of chance involved in whether or not you'll destroy your components, but it's nowhere near worth the risk. The wristbands cost like £3, so it's hardly breaking the bank when you consider that the alternative is risking damaging far more expensive components. You're right, though, touching the chassis is fine too. Like I said, the wristbands are just easier IMO.
As far as hard drives go, the 1 TB Samsung SpinPoint F3 (probably the best hard drive on the market) is between £48 and £70 ($80/$115, the cheapest I saw was £48/$80). I have the 2 TB SpinPoint F4, which uses less energy and is a little slower (5,400 RPM instead of 7,200). However, it's also a bit more expensive (the prices seem to have gone up since I bought it in September; it was about £60 including shipping then, but now it seems to be in the £80-90 range). Probably due to the floods that NGen mentioned.
That's true, touching the chassis does ground you as well, I just think the anti-static wristbands are better because they leave you with two free hands. I think there's a lot of chance involved in whether or not you'll destroy your components, but it's nowhere near worth the risk. The wristbands cost like £3, so it's hardly breaking the bank when you consider that the alternative is risking damaging far more expensive components. You're right, though, touching the chassis is fine too. Like I said, the wristbands are just easier IMO.
As far as hard drives go, the 1 TB Samsung SpinPoint F3 (probably the best hard drive on the market) is between £48 and £70 ($80/$115, the cheapest I saw was £48/$80). I have the 2 TB SpinPoint F4, which uses less energy and is a little slower (5,400 RPM instead of 7,200). However, it's also a bit more expensive (the prices seem to have gone up since I bought it in September; it was about £60 including shipping then, but now it seems to be in the £80-90 range). Probably due to the floods that NGen mentioned.
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